Tackling UK’s Mexican Menus With a Sesame Allergy

This spring marks the joyous festival of Cinco de Mayo, shedding light on the widespread use of sesame in traditional Mexican dishes. Umami investigates the safety of Mexican food in UK restaurants for those with sesame allergies.

By Annabel Sinclair

When Joanna Bednarek prepared dinner for her two children on what appeared to be a typical weekday evening last year, she opted to try something new. Sesame prawn toast; she had spotted it on the shop shelves earlier that day and thought it would be a convenient choice for a simple meal, until her 10-year-old daughter took one bite. As her eyes abruptly swelled and her mouth became increasingly itchy, Joanna hastily gave her a dose of antihistamine, averting what could have been a life-threatening situation. This is an everyday peril shared by 1 in 100 people grappling with sesame allergies, as reported by the NHS UK.

An exclusive Umami investigation reveals that a staggering 72% of survey respondents classify their sesame allergy as severe. Yet, despite being identified as one of the top 14 food allergens under the Food Information Regulations Law, the medical charity Allergy UK contends that sesame, a staple in a number of cuisines, does not pose the same level of concern as other allergens in the food retail industry.

As Cinco de Mayo approaches on 5 May, marking Mexico’s victory over the French in 1862, traditional dishes including the chocolate-infused Mole Poblano and the savoury Cemita, both adorned with sesame, are typically served in celebration. And with MexConnect, an online Mexican magazine, enforcing the historical and nutritional significance of the ingredient in their cuisine, those with sesame seed allergies face a formidable obstacle.

But is sesame as integral to the menus of Mexican restaurants in the UK? Joanna, 41, says: “After my daughter’s allergic reaction [to the prawn toast], we’ve become very aware of the presence of sesame in various cuisines. We tend to avoid Mexican restaurants as sesame is frequently used in their sauces and garnishes, and the cross-contamination risk with cheese and sour cream is very high.”

Navigating life with a sesame allergy often involves a degree of risk-taking, but for Joanna and her daughter, these risks don’t always pan out: “The one time we did visit a Mexican restaurant, we made the mistake of not contacting them beforehand to ask if they could cater to my daughter’s allergy,” explains the Cambridge-based faculty administrator. “Unfortunately, we noticed that many of the dishes actually contained sesame, and we felt as though we weren’t being taken seriously enough by the staff, so we made the decision to leave.” She adds, “If we wish to eat Mexican food, we will now just make fajitas and tortilla pockets safely at home.”

This spring, a food allergy study day is set to take place at St Thomas’ Hospital in London, aiming to not only assess the recent surge in sesame allergies and propose strategies to mitigate their prevalence but also advance the delivery of immunotherapy, a treatment that builds tolerance to allergens.

But in the interim, Umami’s research uncovers that 54.8% of individuals with sesame allergies experience feelings of extreme fear and anxiety when exploring diverse cuisines. Lydia Collins-Hussey, a private paediatric allergy dietitian, says: “Seeds can be static, causing them to cling to surfaces and even clothes. Going to eat at an authentic Mexican restaurant, where sesame seeds are likely present in the kitchen, can therefore be a challenging experience and may not even be an option for some.”

Lydia recommends three tips to help sesame allergy sufferers savour the authentic flavours of Mexican cuisine when dining out without compromising their health. First, do the research: “There will always be some dishes at restaurants that don’t explicitly contain the allergen. Finding these beforehand may alleviate some of the stress.” Next, the allergy specialist suggests strengthening communication: “Always talk to the restaurant; explain your needs and allergies. This will definitely be essential for a good experience and perhaps new possibilities.” Finally, Lydia urges those with sesame allergies to put their safety first: “Never go to a restaurant without your medication, as in the worst case, quick access to it could be the difference between a manageable situation and a life-threatening reaction.”

Tackling the challenges posed by sesame allergies goes beyond individual responsibility; it necessitates restaurants to proactively provide accommodations. Yet, a disconcerting 50% of people surveyed by Umami express dissatisfaction with the awareness of the risks associated with sesame allergies and the subsequent ability to cater to them. “Mexican restaurants need to adopt Wagamama’s strategy, which is to have an excellent allergen matrix, only submitting orders taken by a manager, preparing the food in a separate area, and bringing it to us themselves,” Joanna says of her other dining experiences.

Some Mexican restaurants are already one step ahead. La Chingada, an authentic spot in central London, made a commitment to prioritise allergens when it first opened its doors in 2019. Walter Opitz, the owner of La Chingada, says: “Everybody should be able to have and enjoy our food. We are very flexible in accommodating allergies, so if someone informs us of a sesame allergy, we can easily modify the dish.”

Cross-contamination remains a potential risk, and Walter and his team make every effort to prevent it: “We store all of our ingredients in separate containers, so if a dish incorporates sesame, it’s exclusively used for that preparation. For extra safety, we will use different utensils, which surprisingly, a lot of restaurants don’t do,” he says. “We also offer a detailed allergen menu upon request.”

For individuals like Joanna’s daughter, who may consider a future venture into Mexican cuisine, Walter offers his advice: “Sesame can be hidden in many salsas, oils, breads, desserts, you name it. Even if it isn’t mentioned in the dish description, always double-check with the manager. Substitute ingredients or meal modifications should always be an option.”